Going with the Flow – Orkney 2023
After an early Saturday morning visit to Thurso (massive thanks Dave Towsey) to replace a tyre shredded on the journey up, along with Chris and Tim, we left the extremely accommodating Ferryview campsite to meet Catharine at Gill’s Bay ferry terminal. The busy ferry was 30 minutes late in departing so for once, faffing was not a problem.
That is, until we disembarked at St Margaret’s Hope and watched – from the shelter of the boat shed – those who had brought/come in cars faff on the slip while the rain increased to Biblical proportions. A forty-minute paddle took us to Burray and our first campsite on the eastern side of Barrier 4, with added public toilets. Tea was in Burray itself, courtesy of local and related residents who provided a full and entirely convivial Indian experience.
Sunday was deemed too windy to paddle, so the bus to Kirkwall did instead. Cruise ship tenders rode back and forth, increasing the population by degrees. St Magnus Cathedral opened at 1300 to the hordes and we mostly retreated to the Ayres Hotel for lunch thereafter. Back at the campsite, the heavens opened around 1630 and proceeded to pour down for the next seven hours; on the sandy machair drainage wasn’t a problem but we were all somewhat isolated.
Monday we decamped and, moving the boats across the road and down the barrier, paddled across from Burray into a stiffening westerly F3/4 until we reached Hoxa Head. We made the 3km crossing to Flotta, stopping there for elevenses and a grandstand view of Tim’s boat floating off on the flood until rescued by Chris. Rounding Stanger Head we were met with full-on level 2 fun as the tide poured round the corner – river paddling in magnitude! Despite the presence of our first sea-eagle, several felt the pressure and we had a pretty persistent 5/6 km slog to reach what proved to be a wonderful campsite at the Crockness Martello tower, where all had the chance to relax somewhat after the exertions of the day.
Tuesday, as the seals sang our departure, saw a quick paddle round the corner to Lyness and the superb Scapa Flow Museum, where we spent an all-too-brief hour before continuing up the eastern Hoy coast as the increasing southerly wind and the tide pushed us north. Sea eagles (and an imperiously stationary chick) abounded amongst the wonderfully weathered cliffs of Hoy as we approached Graemsay, having passed Fara, Rysa Little and Cava. We made the crossing to Kirk Geo just prior to the turn of the tide and the impact on the channel was hugely noticeable as we snuck up the western side of Graemsay and into the flow of Hoy Sound across to Stromness. The Point of Ness campsite was, after some negotiation, welcoming – and it had showers! A wander round Stromness and dinner in the Ferry Inn completed an epic day.
Wednesday we left at 0940 (more than meeting the 1000 deadline the campsite warden had given us, despite his being reassured that we were used to rising at unearthly hours to meet tides) to paddle towards the small cruise ship in the bay and head south. Passing the Hall of Clestrain – birthplace of Arctic explorer Dr John Rae – the group turned eastwards to round Houton Head to both lunch and observe some strange possibly Heritage Centre-related rituals in Orphir Bay. As we headed into Scapa Bay the campsite options receded and we eventually settled on the Orkney Sea Cadets grounds (after being given permission) right beside another set of public toilets – all in all a superb camping spot. More relatives visited that evening and in the following morning before we set off on the final leg. This involved dealing with some interesting and sustained clapotis for a number of kilometres until we reached Howequoy where more sheltered water beckoned in the route over towards the Italian Chapel and the J Gow distillery, both of which we reached/visited after an attempt to survey the possibility of a portage over Barrier 2. Post-lunch, we paddled round Glimps Holm and across Echnaloch Bay to the slightly “forbidden” island of Hunda. At Cairn Head, we agreed to return to Burray and to seek a day’s earlier ferry, since the weather forecasts were not promising for Friday. However, a sense of satisfaction in completing a full circumnavigation of Scapa Flow was shared amongst us – it really is a highly impressive body of water which must have provided an even more spectacular sight at the end of WW1 when 74 ships of the German Imperial Fleet were anchored there prior to their scuttling. After Dark and Stormy rum cocktails courtesy of Clare, dinner in the Sands Hotel rounded off another memorable day.
Friday morning saw six of us paddle across to St Margaret’s Hope; two were staying on and one was being chauffeured! After a certain amount of shenanigans sorting out the booking re-arrangements and resisting the temptation to pauchle some unattended steak pies, a timeous departure and breakfast on the boat settled us down, in contrast to the churning waters of the Firth as we crossed past the islands of Swona and Stroma. De-faffing at Gill’s Bay we were treated to an outstanding bonus display from a big dog otter who obligingly and repeatedly re-surfaced and, completely aware, watched us, watching him.
A fantastic trip which revealed many future possibilities: big thanks to David Grieve for organising/leading/negotiating/annoying as usual; Kate and John for their hospitality; Dave T, Gordon, Lynn, Chris, Tim, Catharine and Clare for being there. Exceptionally, no trolleys were harmed during the course of this trip.