Having secured a place on the LSKC trip organised by Dave Towsey, Mark and I joined our fellow paddlers (Morva McKenzie, Julie Bills, Si Harbisher, Dave T, Andrew Young, David, Ian and Graham Bailey) on Friday evening at Ardmair Campsite, just outside Ullapool. The campsite is well run, clean and has hot showers.
The forecast for the next couple of days was a calm F2 for Saturday and a windier F4, gusting F6 or more for Sunday coming from the east.
DAY ONE
The plan was to leave from the beach beside the camp site, so we parked in the layby just outside the entrance in the morning and packed our kayaks on the pebble shoreline. Some heaving and squeezing of stuff was observed, whilst others effortlessly had their boat packed in half the time due to meticulous preparation and a methodology!
Paddles were in the water just before 10 am and we followed the coastline northwards before traversing to the gap in Horse Island. We were just in time to cross the causeway between the two parts of the island even though it should not have dried at all with this tide. We got out here on the seaweedy rocks for our first lunch stop and a leg stretch. The conditions were warm, sunny, and benign with a gentle swell. We had made good progress over an hour and half, averaging 6 km/hour, as we were able to cut across bays reducing the distance travelled.
From Horse Island, we made our way directly across to Tanera Mor arriving in a small bay on the SE corner. This is now a privately owned island that has an array of new and refurbished properties with some dating back to the 1800’s when the herring industry was prominent in the area. Having made our landfall, we regrouped and made our way north anticlockwise to the main anchorage point.
We pulled our kayaks up to the shingly beach below the herring station. We proceeded to tuck into our lunch when a smart Land Rover appeared and Ben, the Manager, welcomed us. As no guests were staying, he encouraged us to wander around and look at the small museum they have established in the old herring station (complete with toilet and hot water!).
The island is now owned by a British financier with commercial and philanthropic aims to retain the island’s heritage through a charitable trust.
Imagine our surprise when we opened a rickety door to the partly refurbed museum building to see a set of nicely made-up bunk beds and a bathroom with an old loo that Thomas Crapper would have been proud to see restored. Beyond this, we found a kitchen/dining area with pictures and information about the island. The vibe was basic, understated, and well-presented, so we think an interior designer was hired to create the effect. We ascended the spiral staircase into a lofty naturally lit area staged as an artist’s studio with wall-painted murals and a gramophone. I would have felt happy to stay the night.
After everyone made full use of the facilities, I reluctantly got into my kayak along with my fellow paddlers and we headed out of the bay north, passing a large sailing ship that had just anchored. We rounded the north end of Tanera Mor and started to head south to explore more of the islands. However, it was heading towards 3.30pm, so a decision was made to find a place to camp given that the initial idea of Eileen an Char was too small for 10 campers.
We decided on Isle Ristol which provided options for a larger camp spot from which we could return to the Summer Isles or follow the coastline back to Ardmair on Sunday.
We eventually sighted an ideal campsite on the north side of Isle Ristol suggested by Mark from a previous excursion that provided plenty of scope for our large group. Two paddlers had already arrived and were resting – then decided to head off and camp elsewhere, no doubt needing a bit more peace. Si had met the male paddler (Jonathan) on his Doug Cooper Summer Isles camp kayak trip and Morva had met the woman paddler (Sandy) from the Women’s Scottish Sea Kayak Symposium so it’s a small world. Both were from the Nairn Kayak Club.
So after a 24 km trip that day, we set up camp, and cooked our tea as we soaked up the sunshine and amazing sunset on the sandy beach. There was a brief discussion about whether the predicted changing conditions would prevail, so we decided to wait until the morning to make the final plan.
DAY TWO
We departed at 9 am after a peaceful sleep, having unknowingly picked up several small “guests”. It was clear the wind had started to pick up as we exited from our sheltered bay. In the sound between the island and the mainland, the predicted wind made itself known and there was little protection hugging the coastline from the f4 gusting 5/6 conditions which, although an east wind, was being funneled up the coast. It felt as if we were battling directly into the wind and lumpy seas, with only a few intervals for respite as we traveled south east along the coast.
After a 12 km slog, we landed on a shingle beach by the burial ground opposite Horse Island and refueled.
This was going to be the last stop before we committed to the rest of the journey back to Ardmair camp site. As such it was the end of the road, not only for the deceased on the other side of the wall we were getting shelter from but also for anyone contemplating a bailout and hitching a lift to the campsite. (Plan still to be formulated).
By some chance of good fortune, the two kayakers from the evening before landed just after us, as they had left their vans by the burial ground when starting their amazing Summer Isles trips a couple of days earlier. A lift with boat was offered and I jumped at the chance to save my arthritic thumbs, which weren’t bearing well to the sheer slog of paddling against those windy conditions.
So whilst I was enjoying a long hot shower at the campsite, sipping tea and chatting about kayak trips on the east coast with my newfound paddling pals, the rest of the troupe steely completed the final 10km, hugging the coast in the force 4 gusting 6 conditions now with some rain added.
An update from the rest of the group is noted here for the ongoing journey:
Paddling around the headlands provided challenges and refreshers in turning into the wind. Certain strategic points along the coastline provided respite, particularly at Geodha Mor which also permitted a brief sheltered landing before the final 4 km straight into the wind.
With Isle Martin in sight and the golden beaches of Canna More beckoning, we dug deep to navigate away from the fish farm which the wind was determined to drive us into. Two and a half hours later covering the last 10km stretch we triumphantly arrived at Ardmair.
After a well-earned shower, rest and fish and chips in Ullapool/camp-cooked culinary delights by the Hamiltons, we congregated on the beach to contemplate the amazing journey of two halves, the challenges overcome, and a beautiful sunset over Isle Martin.
USEFUL INFORMATION
Some interesting and useful intel was obtained from our new-found Nairn paddling pals, about camping further north next time to get immediate access to the Summer Islands. Our larger group did limit the camping locations, so keeping the group smaller to say 5/6 would be recommended.
Plus an amazing resource one of our fellow CSKA paddlers recommended provided in-depth knowledge of the beautiful features we could explore. Check out location information
https://www.kayaksummerisles.com/paddler-guides/caves-archways-geos-of-the-summer-isles/
Lastly, local knowledge says the coast and cliffs in no way offers the expected protection from an east wind as the landscape tends to funnel the wind into a southerly which blows directly up the coast and becomes a full-on headwind.
A final note is to check for ticks after the trip as a few members picked up a few on their return home.
All great information when planning future trips in the area.