Lucky 13
They arrived in dribs and drabs (Easter traffic largely to blame) to cross the sound, and bonfire underneath the stars. While the early arrivals went round Shuna Island on Friday afternoon, thirteen paddlers eventually gathered on Eilean nan Caorach, pitched their tents, ate and gathered driftwood for the fire. For many it was the first real outing of the year, certainly the first camping trip hand for at least one, their first club meet ever. As usual, the gulls were present and making sure we heard their displeasure – but the addition of Canadian geese compounded the ongoing – and it really did go on – noise.
Next morning we struck camp and left the island in superb conditions an hour after HW and, with no-one to collect from Port Appin this year, headed immediately down the western side of Lismore, making the obligatory stop at Castle Coeffin for leg-stretching and jelly-babies.
Further south the wind began to pick up slightly, with small gusts making our progress more strenuous. After dropping in briefly to the harbour at Sailean, we continued until we reached Achadun Bay for our lunch stop.
Revived, we explored the ruins of Achadun Castle and listened to tales of legends old and new.
Given the expected forecast, a decision had been taken not to circumnavigate Lismore, but to return to Saliean harbour to camp, the farm bothy being occupied. A pod of porpoises welcomed us into the bay. The old limekilns harbour hub on the west of Lismore proved an excellent campsite with many available pitches, some shelter, and is naturally close to the water. Even better was the astonishing silence compared to the raucous racket of the previous evening, though some members were still more talkative than others. Nevertheless, the entire party were in bed by 2100 and slept considerably better than before.
With HW at 0815, we left the harbour at an easy 0900 and retraced our strokes up the western seaboard of Lismore, as the gusts became gradually stronger. Crossing the bay opposite Eilean Loch Oscair proved a greater challenge than before (more than one baseball cap was replaced by a beanie beforehand.) The dropping tide and the wind in Port Ramsay meant a not always intentional change of direction or two – and we pulled in at the limekiln for a breather and refreshments. Resuming, a medical alarm was accidentally set off, and while three paddlers struggled to silence it, the unknowing – or possibly uncaring – rest hurried off into the distance. Regrouped, we rounded the northern tip of Lismore and, with perfect timing two tiny Easter Sunday lambs gazed down at us from above. Crossing the narrows at the Lynn of Lorne to return to Port Appin provided a final test – a south-going tidal stream on springs with the wind from the SE meant some “interesting” water to negotiate, which all did successfully either by short or longer routes. Back at Port Appin at midday, we met a large group of paddlers from Liverpool who were about to cross the narrows after lunch. It was probably just as well we didn’t meet in the middle…
Port Appin had been extremely busy all weekend, so we decamped to Benderloch for brilliant service of coffee, chips, soup, scones, salad and toasties.
Thanks to David Grieve for organising yet again, and to everyone for the terrible vegetable jokes.