The advance party left Eilean nan Caorach, where they had camped overnight on Thursday, to meet others who arrived on Friday morning. Leaving Port Appin at 0945 we paddled down the Lynn of Lorne in strengthening headwinds to enjoy a sunny lunch on Eilean na Cloiche, after having called in at Achnacroish to stretch our legs. Crossing back to the east coast of Lismore proved slightly challenging, but by the time we reached Eilean Musdile the wind had changed direction into more westerly, funneling down the Sound of Mull. We rounded the lighthouse into considerably more difficult conditions with wind, swell and clapotis; our original plan to camp in the walled area altered as low water meant taking the boats up would be difficult. A splinter party investigated the shingle beach on the southernmost part of the main island and this proved ideal.
Saturday morning was squally but rewarded us with multiple eagle sightings – particularly satisfying for the Chairman – from the campsite. Catharine led the group in a yoga warm-up which clearly impacted on the weather as, after one squall passed while we were throwing our shapes on the shingle, conditions settled. We paddled easily up the western coast of Lismore to Bernera Island where the group split into two with one going round the outside of Bernera and the other navigating the narrowing channel to continue up the coast. This latter party reached the bothy at An Sailean at 1230 and set up camp in preparation for the arrival of the rest of the group. The food order from the farm arrived; the bothy – now with added composting toilet! – was inspected and a further yoga warm-down took place.
The limestone industry on Lismore has a long history, as detailed on the plaque attached to the buildings near the disused quarry 800 m north; kilns can be seen dotted all around the island. A good walk whetted appetites and the serious business of dealing with the farm produce – and repelling the enthusiastic farm dog – got under way. A Whisperlite stove belied its name. Post dinner activity included music quizzes and tales of wardrobe malfunction – though the mystery of the abandoned swimshoes and costume on the kiln pier remains unsolved. Song of the weekend: The National Express
Conditions on Sunday were ideal: sunshine, little wind and no sea to speak of. The group paddled up to Castle Coeffin through the quite astonishing numbers of jellyfish – literally thousands, with at least three species present – where we happened on two other paddlers. After taking in the spectacular castle ruins and superb views, lunch was at Poll Bhrothias and such was the heat by now that two party members went for an intentional swim. As we moved into Port Ramsey in the afternoon, the wind began to pick up from the south and we were blown towards the northern end of the island. Rounding this, we pulled in at the ferry jetty to put on cags and both review and share the paddle plan: we paddled down the Lynn of Lorne into the headwind; ferry-glided across over a rather bouncy channel to Appin Rocks and returned to Port Appin for 1530. Total paddle 40 km.
An excellent extended weekend which meant a relaxed mood and paddle each day, topped off by superb weather on the last day of the journey. Thanks as ever to the Chairman for organizing and to everyone else for making it so much fun – the quality of the verbal exchange was particularly high.