The weather gods were not to smile in the west, according to the weekend forecast of F5/6 around the chosen isle, so our leader made the inspired decision to relocate to the North-east of the mainland.
Over Friday evening six of us met at the stunning Lybster harbour (at one point the third-largest herring port in Scotland) which provided common ground for camping; picnic tables; a water supply; free beer from a sympathetic local resident; and all-night floodlights……
Rising at what some might describe as a relatively civilised hour, we breakfasted and organised a shuttle to Saxigoe, our destination for the day. Launching from the shingle beach at Lybster, we began what was to became a superb day, immediately finding a narrow rock arch through which to paddle and set the tone for the entire weekend. The swell was a little more than expected/forecast but was well within the capabilities of the group, and we made steady progress northwards, exploring geos and caves as we went. Fine layers of sedimentary rock provide many nesting places for the abundant kittiwakes and shags, though evidence of the continuing impact of avian flu was particularly marked on the population of the former over the course of the whole weekend, with many ill or orphaned chicks present.
Lunch was at the spectacular Whaligoe Haven, a deep cove in the 75m cliffs with a staircase ascending over 360 steps up which the 19th century fishwives hauled their wares. Rather less effortfully, we absorbed the sunshine and the craic with another paddling group from Sea Kayak Plockton, whilst watching fulmars, the Spitfires of the seacliffs, ride the updrafts. A deep cave system with added waterfall lay below; on exit, Graham made every effort to ensure all were inundated – not always successfully.
Further north, as the nature of the rock changed, we spied more than one set of climbers on the cliffs – clearly committed to abseiling down and then climbing out, given the lack of escape routes to the sea …… the coast continued, cliffs gradually lowering, as we approached Wick Bay and the challenge of crossing as a group to reach the lovely harbour at Saxigoe with easy car access to the beach after 30 km of paddling.
Saturday night’s planning over chips resulted in the decision to paddle from Helmsdale to Dunbeath, again heading north-east along the coast. With minimal swell, tidal assistance and such wind as there was behind us, we made excellent progress in the sunshine. What followed was a day out to remember: huge cliff walls with vast geos, endless caves, multiple stacks/blocks and arches. Several of our diversions proved to be cave systems where entrance and exit were not the same and led us to further discoveries, such as smaller caves with apparent seals singing within. Stopping at the small settlement of Berridale for lunch, a pod of 6-8 dolphins crossed the bay before our gaze. Engagement was constant – a sea eagle and a peregrine were spotted – with the ultimate experience as we approached Rockhead and travelled through another cave system to emerge into the cathedral of An Dun, host to many kittiwake nests and the most spectacular architecture of the entire trip. The cliffs overhung us as we craned our necks skywards to try and take in the astonishing surroundings without capsizing. The exit via the enormous natural arch completely dwarfed our open-mouthed progress. A few further kilometres took us to Dunbeath (birthplace of Neil Gunn), ice-creams and more shuttling. A shorter day (21km) but one which unexpectedly surpassed the former. Sally, Martyn and Ian left for home on an absolute high.
Graham, Neil and Richard camped at Dunbeath; an excellent camp spot with toilets nearby. On Monday morning they launched adjacent to the camping area and kayaked to Latheronwheel, 4km to the north. Lots of caves to explore including several with connections to adjacent caves along passages a metre wide and up to 40 metres long. After a brief snack in the delightful harbour, they headed straight to back Dunbeath due to the wind picking up slightly and the requirement to get back down the road to Edinburgh.
Many thanks to Graham, Richard, Martyn and Sally for being engaging company and especially to Neil for being instrumental in introducing several of us – including his good self – to a new and sensational coastline which should be on everyone’s bucket list.