Lothian Sea Kayak Trip Report North East Coast
Group Participants
David Grieve, David Towsey Gordon McGeorge, Clare Eadie, Joanne Boyle, James Boyle.
Inverbervie, Friday, 14/08/2020
The plan was for the group to wild camp in Inverbervie. David G and David T sallied ahead of the group to reconnoitre a suitable site. On our arrival at the rendezvous, the carpark next to an inclined pebble beach, we found both Davids fully kitted up with their kayaks on the waterline. How nice I thought, they are going out for an evening paddle. I went to find out where the campsite was so we could set up while they went out on their little excursion. After conducting the 2 metre social distancing niceties, we were informed that plan’s A,B,C and D went out the window and that plan E was to pack up the kayaks and paddle a mere 10 minutes to a small headland to camp. Jo and I coupled with our protesting stomachs were not expecting plan E, it was 19.00ish and we would now be eating later than expected. Both Davids had gorged earlier on fish-suppers at the award-winning chippy, so their stomachs were at peace. Ever the efficient organiser, the former girl-guide extraordinaire, Jo went into immediate action by pointing at things and places for me to pack the camping gear, food, drink, clothing, kitchen sink etc… Clare was on route and would be about 45 minutes, so despite our griping stomachs we decided to wait to see if she needed any help. Clare was also not expecting plan E but being the experienced wild camper, her kayak was loaded in a blur of economic activity.
We launched, paddled the short distance, landed, and unloaded. The Davids had already camped and were relaxing after enjoying the sight of 50+ frolicking Dolphins. As we were pitching our tents, we had an encounter with the local law enforcement. Our friendly neighbourhood policeman had been dispatched to inform us that the so-called “Game Keeper” claimed that this was private land and that we could not camp here. What followed was a lively debate around the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003. This culminated with our newfound friend claiming that he was happy for us to stay, stating that at least there was no bonfires and people dancing around naked. This comment raised a collective eyebrow within the group, and to lighten the mood I suggested he return in about 10 minutes and we could see what we could do. This produced a smile, whereupon he turned on his heels shaking his head and chuckling, no doubt looking forward to his next Hamish Macbeth like encounter. After pitching and organising the gear, much to the relief of our now mutinous stomachs, we ate, had drinks, chatted, and retired late in anticipation of our next few days of paddling.
Inverbervie – Crawton – Auchmithie, Saturday, 15/08/2020
We had an early start, decamped packed the kayaks and paddled the short trip over to the carpark to meet up with Gordon. On landing, we unpacked the kayaks, traversed up the steep pebble beach loaded the gear into the cars, met with Gordon and were back on the water for 09.15am (according to my Garmin Fenix 5). Our plan was to paddle North from Inverbervie to Crawton, lunch then paddle back. The section of this coast is a sanctuary for sea birds due to the long stretches of conglomerate cliffs. This environment is impenetrable to most predators providing a refuge for breeding birds which nest in their thousands. There are also inlets, caves and skerries which offer the kayaker a mixed trip. We paddled up past Crooked Haven which harbours the old church of Kinneff, which at one point concealed the Scottish Crown Jewels from Oliver Cromwell’s invading forces. Between Crooked Haven and Todhead Point we encountered a myriad of nesting sea birds, the most common seemed to be Kittiwakes. The visual sight of the birds was impressive, but the fragrance prompted Clare to remark, accurately, on the pervasive aroma of Eau de Bass Rock. We hit Todhead point (the water was noted to be a bit lumpier) which is marked by the Todhead Lighhouse constructed in 1897 by David Stevenson. Just up from the lighthouse we passed the village of Catterline, a former fishing village now noted for residing artists, who draw inspiration from the variable local weather and light patterns. As well as the seabirds we were also scrutinised by the odd Halichoerus grypus (hooked-nose sea-pig) as we passed their territories. On our journey we had explored mainly inlets and skerries, no big caves as such, but the Garran, an impressive hidden bay accessed through a wide arch, provided us with an imposing structure.
Under the Garran Arch
We headed a short distance to Crawton, where if you head north to Stonehaven the section of the coast is known as Fowlsheugh a RSPB reserve where in the breeding season 170,000 birds congregate, a good plan for a future trip. As we headed back to Inverbervie, the wind had picked up a bit and the return journey seemed a little bit more taxing. Arriving back at the carpark we loaded the kayaks on the cars and were treated by Clare to some excellent chips from a local chip van. However, I noticed our Chairman’s penchant for fish suppers, not for him would chips alone suffice. We headed South to our next destination Auchmithie. Gordon had suggested we camp at the Old Harbour there as we were less likely to be moved on, and I am not surprised. The road, and I use the word road sparingly, down to the harbour would easily qualify as stage of the Dakar Rally. More pots and holes than road this was a seriously interesting part of the trip which Jo negotiated with elegant composure, not!
At the bottom, the ad hoc campsite was surprisingly full, but the group managed to procure a comfortable spot. We again assembled the camp, got out the barbeque, and had a very agreeable evening. I noticed that our Chairman, as well as certain eating habits, had specific drinking preferences, which appeared to be a fondness of what I would describe as lady-like-cocktails. My suspicions may have been confirmed when Gordon offered him a whisky, his reaction seemed akin to someone offering Superman a slab of Kryptonite. We had a late rise at 08.30am, decamped with me doing what I do best, folding things. This obsession, which remains with me today, was a result of my time in HM Royal Navy where space was a premium and everything was ironed and folded to compensate. When David G found out he berated my ironing skills, claiming proudly that he had never ironed anything in his life! He then threatened me with expulsion from the club due to my ironing talent, rich coming from a man who has a predilection for rhubarb infused gin or passion fruit Martinis!
Arbroath Cliffs, Auchmithie- The Needle Eye Sunday, 16/08/2020
If big sea caves and tunnels are for you the Arbroath Cliffs should be on your hit list. This is a truly spectacular stretch of coastline with 16 caves available to explore between Auchmithie and Arbroath. We started exploring almost immediately with a set of caves around the first headland (see attached trail) followed by several others on the next. Care had to be taken to avoid the fishing lines draped with hooks as these areas are clearly a good place for mackerel etc… judging by the amount of people fishing from precarious points. We explored a few more caves before pulling into a deep inlet and landing spot for some light refreshment. As we were relaxing and reflecting on how good the caves were, we spotted a sit-on-top kayak approaching, paddled by a male and female kayaker. The male instantly recognised us as fellow paddlers and greeted us with a hail-fellow-well-met type of salutation. They disembarked, scaled a short ascent, the male with a professional camera in hand, and disappeared into what I believe is Smugglers Cave. After a short interlude, much laughter and mirth emanated from the cave which gave rise to debate amongst the group to the type of activity that may be occurring. Suggestions ranged from the innocent to the nefarious (after all it was Smugglers Cave), but the consensus was that they were just Spelunking (look it up). After a short period, they re-emerged from the troglodyte world, the female cut some poses while the male snapped. They then re-embarked their kayak and we bade them bon voyage and good luck with their Spelunking.
We also shipped off to explore the last remaining caves, which included the Stalactite Cave and the Mermaid’s Tunnel, for me were the most spectacular of the trail. Gordon suggested we head back as the skerries near Arbroath, normally good for rock hopping, would not be good due to the high tide. We landed back at Auchmithie, with a short portage, and loaded our kayaks onto the cars. The only obstacle facing us was the ascent up the perilous Dakar path. The group formed a plan in which we would go up separately, the car in front would block the top of the road and wait for the next and so on and so forth. David G was to go first followed by Jo and I then the rest. Before we embarked, I covertly examined the security of David G’s boat. The reason for this was that he had informed me that on occasion he has had lapses in concentration after a paddle where he has neglected to secure his boat, resulting in mayhem when his kayak and car part company. But all was well, and he was clearly functioning at 100%. The journey up was as hazardous as the descent, but Jo coped extremely well. On arrival at the top David G’s blocking work complete, sped off dramatically (must have been a chippy nearby) and we all survived to paddle another day.
Jo and I would like to express our deep gratitude to all our fellow paddlers who did all the planning. The weekend was extremely enjoyable not only for the fantastic journeys, but also for the amiable company, especially during our Après kayak when we settled down for food and drink.
Jo and James Boyle (A.K.A the Blue Duo)
No animals or kayakers were harmed during the writing of this report.
https://www.taysidebiodiversity.co.uk/wpcontent/uploads/2015/01/Auchmithie_Trail_Leaflet.pdf