Sixteen paddlers left the well-appointed Argyll Kayaker Cove on Cuan Sound on Saturday morning in brilliant conditions (calm seas, bright sunshine), taking separate routes.
Four i.e. anyone called Dave or Nick, headed to the Grey Dogs, launching at precisely 08.30 to cross a rather limp Cuan Sound. We followed the west coast of Luing down as far as Sgeir na Cusha , stopping en route for Dave G to shed a layer. We crossed over the Sound of Luing against a still northerly flow to Lunga, where we made our way down to the Grey Dogs. The flow was set to turn easterly at 1145. Arriving half an hour earlier, there should have been a westerly flow to play in. While there had been much discussion the previous evening about how weak the neap tide there was going to be, we did not expect the Dogs to be so tame. We played around for a bit and after lunch, headed over to the northerly point of the Garvellachs, making our way down the east side, then cutting through to travel down the west side. Sheltered from the sun, the air temperature was very much cooler. There was also enough swell to briefly lose sight of man and boat. The geology on this side was spectacular. Finally we cut back through to the east side to land at the site of the monastery, past two yachts anchored in the bay.
Slightly later – very well, 1000 – the remaining dozen split into two allegedly manageable groups led by Martyn and Neil. These two groups rounded Cuan Point and headed down the coast towards Cullipool, cutting across to Belnahua, one of the slate islands that “roofed the world.” We explored the island which consists largely of flooded quarries, associated buildings and long-deserted, ruined accommodation. Skimming stones there are aplenty. Leaving Belnahua, we rounded Fladda on its eastern side, encountering two other paddlers (who later shared our campsite) and skirted the western side of Rubha Fiola towards Lunga. Landing spots for lunch proved elusive, so plans altered to head towards Eilean Dubh Mor, where the Grey Dogs group had already been sunbathing. We paddled round the south and western edges to eventually find a weedy bay near Port Ailean on the north of the island. A sly otter swam across the bay, hauled out and disappeared as we ate.
Heading west, we hugged the coast of Eilean Dubh Beag and then cut across the Firth of Lorn towards the channel between Garbh Eileach and Dun Chonnuill, watching the CalMac ferry bound for Oban and spotting a small school of porpoises on the way. Golden eagles were our companions as we paddled down the eastern coast of the Garvellachs until we reached the narrow inlet which is the landing for the old monastery on Eileach an Naoimh, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eileach_an_Naoimh where we were reunited with the other four members of the party. Maintained by Historic Scotland, the area provides an excellent campsite and we were rewarded with glorious views and a sunset from what is reputed to be the grave of Columba’s mother, Eithne. A beautiful end to a superb day.
Sunday was overcast as predicted. We left camp by 0930 and paddled as two groups of eight round the southern end of the island, meeting some swell on the western side. However this was no more than a gentle push along the entire chain, allowing us to appreciate the rock formations towering above us. Reaching Don Chonnuill again, and again encountering the eagles, the two groups parted and while one returned to Belnahua, the rest made landing in a narrow inlet and explored the steep and dramatic fort and nearby dun (aerial maps show a considerable number of buildings having existed thereon.) After lunch, as the weather began to close in a little, we made our way across choppier seas between Belnahua and Fladda before turning towards Cullipool and Cuan Sound, where the as-yet gentle south-going stream returned us to Kayaker Cove.
A terrific weekend with a lot of conversation, great company and fantastic scenery. Many thanks are due to Neil, both for conceiving, organising and welcoming so many to share this experience, which clearly many had long hoped to achieve. Thanks to David Grieve and Martyn for also leading and freely sharing their knowledge.