A trip that pretty much gave us everything – multiple sea eagle sightings, clapotis, flat calm, wind in (mostly unpredictable) directions, caves, dry causeways, seals in abundance, spectacular scenery, a search for water, rain and good camping.
Clare and Ian had paddled from Kyle of Lochalsh to the Crowlins (staying at Uags bothy) the day before and then met up with Richard and Mark for pizza and camping in Broadford. Breakfast (substantial) the next morning was in the excellent Bothy Coffee, from whence we drove to Sconser to meet Stephen and Catharine.
Avoiding the ferry, we headed towards the Narrows of Raasay dealing with some (also substantial) wind and chop which were less avoidable. Caves on the Skye side were explored before we made the decision to head across to the western side of Raasay and hopefully some shelter. Lunch at Inver involved a slight drop in the wind. Though this was relatively short-lived, the clear views across to Portree and the Quiraing more than made up for it.
Eventually rounding Manish Point, we headed across Loch Arnish in confused seas to Caolas Fladda – to discover that our planning had been slightly out and that we’d have to wait until the causeway flooded before we could advance. Remarkably, (or not) the wind on the other side was more friendly and we enjoyed some more relaxed paddling up the western side of Raasay , including a superb sighting of a pair of sea eagles, until clapotis intervened briefly. By now the channel south of Eilean Tigh was well flooded and we could paddle leisurely through to the shingle beach and excellent campsite at the north end of Raasay.
The previous evening’s wind dropped on Saturday morning, so the breakfasting/decamping/packing/escaping involved considerable midgies. Once on the water however conditions improved and we explored the fabulous anchorage at Arcairseid Mhor ( a possible oasis) before moving on to Arcairseid Thioram’s dry harbour, where we were “welcomed” by both a notice and the apparent owner, whom we were able to directly reassure we had no intentions of camping nigh to his rental cottages. A source of water was however established. Moving north, conditions completely flattened out as multiple curious seals popped up repeatedly to check us out before we slotted into the tidal pool at the north end of Rona for lunch. Turning south, we explored skerries and geos against the fantastic eastern backdrop of the Torridon hills until we reached Church Cave, accessible via a scramble from the sea. We continued south, crossing Caol Rona, looking into where we’d camped the previous evening, and reached Castle Brochel around 1715 – a long day on the water! Some negotiation took place as to the best landing spot but we camped on the usual headland; in increasing rain this time, but with a birthday cake as a surprise bonus.
Sunday started into a stiff SW with a bit of bounce to wake everyone up and keep us on our metaphorical toes. Rock-hopping from Screapadal amongst the gigantic boulders and rockfall – including the ‘dragon skeletons’ – of the impressive cliffs of east Raasay also exercised our faculties to their outmost until we reached Hallaig and the waterfall, where newcomers to this paddle are suitably ‘baptised’ – and everyone else just gets a (probably) much-needed wash. All was taken in good part, it can be reported. As we rounded the southern end of Raasay the wind seemed determined to stay in our faces and we faced a stiff crossing from Rubha nan Cloiche to Rubh’ an Uillt Dharaich. Here we paddled as a tight group, though in fact there was no ferry to avoid, since Sunday sailings are somewhat less than those through the week.
Further pizzas and coffee in Broadford for the most part rounded off a hugely satisfying weekend. Many thanks to Richard, Mark, Catharine, Stephen and Clare for making it so enjoyable.