Despite the unfortunate hiatus of a road diversion on Thursday afternoon, ongoing WhatsApp updates, missed phone calls and an extremely late Indian meal, seven paddlers eventually met up at Sconser ferry terminal on Friday morning to embark on a circumnavigation of Raasay and Rona.
We headed north on the ebb tide initially to allow the incoming ferry plenty of room and then rounded the spit of Rubha an Torra Mhoir into the Narrows of Raasay, where we could feel the southgoing tidal movement. Continuing up the western coast of Raasay under overcast skies, we watched a sea eagle – the first of many – and listened to the chat of the tour boats on VHF. After lunch at Inver, on low water, steady progress was made until we crossed Loch Arnish and rounded Eilean Fladday. By this time the tide had risen sufficiently for us to cut through Caol Eilean Tigh and make camp at the shingle beach at the north end of Raasay. A superb campsite with wonderful views and enough breeze to defeat the midges, an MBA both is only five minutes away; some visited and one of our party stayed overnight.
High water on Saturday was 0630 and we left at 0900 into stronger northerly winds, paddling tighter as a group, for the most part, across Caol Rona and up the west coast of Rona. Despite a bit more chop than the day before, we made good progress and entered Loch a Bhraige to be greeted by a large group of seals who repeatedly popped up to maintain monitoring. Lunch was had, water was sourced, and a bog physically explored. Mussels were in evidence but despite the presence of the required ingredients, moule mariniere did not appear on the later evening menu. The seals watched us go as we left the loch and its NATO base and rounded the skerries at the north end of Rona where a fabulous view unfolded; the clouds had largely lifted, the sky was blue and the Torridon mountains formed a fantastic backdrop to our endeavours. Northerly wind, some swell and a south-going stream meant we raced down the east coast, stopping only to visit the Church Cave where the islanders worshipped prior to a church being built in 1912. The current congregation consisted of er….midges, so we fled to attend to the cries from below concerning boats on the rising tide. A full handful of sea eagles were spotted over the course of our passage south, across Caol Rona again and down the eastern coast of Raasay to Brochel with its ruined castle and plentiful camping space. A driftwood beach fire rounded off a hugely committing but very rewarding day.
Another 0900 start on Sunday, after a probable minke sighting, saw us passing the spectacular western coast of the lower part of Raasay, reminiscent of Conan Doyle’s “Lost World.” Towering cliff pillars, set well back from the water, wreathed in trees and cloud, seemed to be guarding secrets and long-fallen gigantic blocks impeded a straight course. Dun Caan’s flat peak floated in the mist above us as we approached the deserted village made famous in Sorley MacLean’s poem: “Tha tim, am fiadh, an coille Hallaig”. We made the obligatory runs under the waterfall below the township and thus rinsed, rounded Rubha na Leac for a lunch stop at South Fearns. Reaching the old pier at Suisnish, we ferry-glided across from the point, turning to paddle south into the sunshine and a vista of the Cuillin as we returned to Sconser.
An absolutely fantastic trip over three days with a hugely varied coastline, paddling conditions and group members: Catherine, Clare, Dave, Graham, Janek and Tracy.