Six paddlers eventually (earlier commitments, A9 closure) met at Sconser ferry terminal on Friday afternoon to embark on a weekend journey in slightly smaller self-propelled craft.
Once away from the terminal and round the long spit extending out from Skye, we headed across Balmeanach Bay and explored the cliffs, caves and arch of An Aird. From here we made the longer crossing towards Oskaig Point and Holoman Island, continuing up the west coast of Raasay while assisted by the following wind (and some accompanying showers.) Improved views and occasional rainbows revealed Portree, and The Quiraing with a line of campervans below.
Just south of Manish Point a cave entrance beckoned. A guardian surprised us by flying into the cave and subsequently “swimming” back to a ledge which clearly functioned as a current safe space for this immature sea-eagle – one of several sea-eagle sightings that day.
Given the lateness of our start it was no real surprise that we arrived at our superb Neil-guided campsite in Loch Arnish, via the Crack of Black, just as we were about to lose the light. Midgies were in attendance. We quickly set up our tents, refuelled and got our heads down. 19 km had been covered.
As we struck camp next morning, a small school of porpoises headed into the loch. Crossing the bay, we headed for the gap between Raasay and Eilean Fladday, knowing that our planning would allow us to paddle over the old causeway without interruption. Once through Caol Fladda, route choices were further discussed and a group decision made to paddle directly across Loch an Sgurra and up the western coast of Eilean Tighe to cross Caol Rona and aim towards the superb anchorage of Acairseid Mhor. As we crossed its mouth, a stunning yacht passed us and a seaplane flew overhead. Further north more seals appeared as we approached the skerries at the north tip of Rona, where we also encountered the most testing conditions of the trip: F4 northerly, with which everyone coped well. The tidal pool was inaccessible due to the falling tide, so lunch was held at the foot of the NATO installation once we’d rounded the top of the island. More sheltered conditions and increasing sunshine made for a relaxed sojourn down the eastern side of Rona, including a visit to the Church Cave and futher/multiple sea eagle sightings.
Seals followed us all the way from the skerries until at last we reached Caol Rona again and crossed to a familiar campsite at the north end of Raasay – which we quickly abandoned in favour of Taigh Thormaid Dubh, the MBA bothy some 800 metres from the beach, due to the overwhelming midge presence. Cooking and conversation (death, taxes, powers of attorney and the trials of being a Hearts supporter – it was more fun than it sounds) were easier and, having travelled 29 km we settled down at an appropriate hour only to be mildly disturbed by a party of six slightly traumatised walkers around midnight – but there’s always room in a bothy!
Despite NOT having to take down tents next morning, we were later away than the previous day – and yes, the midgies were in attendance to take their farewell fill of us. Applecross was shrouded in mist as we left, but the weather lifted as we headed south to Brochel Castle, another familiar campsite, for a snack. Passing the former township of Screapadal, the most spectacular aspect of Raasay appeared – the towering vertical cliffs of Druim an Aonaich, set back from the water in which huge eroded blocks gave us opportunities for micro-navigation, along with strained necks.
Below Hallaig the waterfall provided diversion and refreshment (at least one mug was produced) and a bouldery lunch stop beyond.
Some more testing southerly breezes greeted us as we passed Rubha na’ Leac and rounded the southern end of Raasay to Eyre Point and Rubha na Cloiche. From there a straightforward paddle across the sound to Sconser awaited our arrival at 1730, after having travelled 28 km.
An excellent weekend: variable but manageable conditions; managed consensus on decision-making; sea eagle sightings into double figures; and an introduction to club expeditions for two of our party which seems unlikely to put them off.
Huge thanks to Neil Black for organising leading and to Claire, Steven, another Neil and Nettie for providing such good company and humour throughout.
Ian Patterson