Raasay & the Crowlins — 12th to 16th August
An epic adventure organised by Phil Burgess and led by Gerry Mulligan, paddling with Gordon, John and Graham.
We launched from Kyleakin on a blazing afternoon, stopping at Broadford to battle a strangely warm headwind funnelling through the gully, restock at the Co-op, and grab coffee and cake at the posh café.
Paddling on along Scalpay’s West coast, the eclipse soon stole the light and sound and everything went eerily quiet — Gerry switched on his guardian light: “come with me if you want to live”… ok, what he actually said was “follow my light if it gets too dark.” We camped that night on north Scalpay, where bracken had swallowed most of the grass, leaving only a stony strip to pitch on. That evening over. Delicious banana and chocolate cake Gerry suggested that Phil and Si could take a couple of days leading the rather experienced group.
Next day, with Phil leading the group we headed up the East coast of Rasaay, we stopped to refuel at Brochel Castle — slippy “death rocks”, lovely scenery, and sandstone cliffs pitted red and ochre by salt weathering.
Heading north, Gerry asked Si to start spotting landmarks for tomorrow’s crossing to Applecross— moments later, visibility dropped, which turned out not to be an issue given the later change of plan…phew. We camped on a larger, clearer site, though it took Graham and Gerry a few passes to find the way in, the route looking different at each tide. Graham got a bothy fire going once we’d landed and disappeared for the evening. Delicious christmas cake was eaten as we planned the next day.
In agreement with the weather forecast, a change of plan let us keep basecamp on Raasay and explore Rona with lighter kayaks. First stop: Big Harbour, where we eyed up a campsite which would have been ideal for a smaller group. On to Dry Harbour, now dotted with rental cottages and a stern (and slightly excessive) some might suggest, no-camping sign. After a bit of chop we headed North and around the Skerries to Rona Lighthouse where a huge seal colony greeted us — the light itself was built in 1857 after a widow spent years guiding boats past the rocks with a lamp in her cottage window. Now on the West coast and leaving Graham with the kayaks, Phil and I scrambled up a rock seam to Church Cave — Uamh an Fhuamhaire, “the giant’s cave” — used as the island’s church until 1912, and for baptisms long after that apparently!
After a last evening on Raasay and Range Control’s all-clear at 8am, with Si taking the lead in a tight formation and with Phil up front following a bearing and accounting for tidal drift, we rode a wind assisted straight line east to Sand — a big yellow landmark we reached 20 minutes early!
A quick rest on a beautiful sandy beach halfway, then on to Applecross for a well-earned meal at the welcoming and cozy Inn while we waited out the tide. By the time we set off again the tide had dropped substantially, meaning a long, cold fully loaded four person carry across a newly-exposed bay. Rounding the corner towards Uags brought some proper waves — and a bit of impromptu surfing for some, not so much for those with belly fulls of apple crumble and custard. Uags itself was the best campsite of the trip, complete with a bothy fire already lit by a thoughtful guest, and cracking views of the Crowlins.
An early start took us through the middle of the Crowlins — wider and tamer than past trips, apparently thanks to the high water, but no less enjoyable. After a short rest, a hard slog against the tide and some rolling waves brought us past the fish factory’s gleaming roof, before an easy final paddle under the bridge and back to the cars.
Mixed weather, plenty of midges and ticks, but great fun and some brilliant crossings. Sea eagles, otters, porpoise, one possible whale (or submarine), and seals beyond counting. 124km total.
Many lessons learned after a week with very experienced paddlers. Thanks to Phil for making it happen, and to Gerry for the thoughtful leadership, creating learning opportunities and great coaching, as ever.
Si Harbisher